Lawn Installation Care Instructions

SOIL PREPARATION

A critical part of the seeding process is preparing the soil.  During the seed germination process, the root sprout (radicle), needs immediate contact to loose, permeable soil.  The root sprout needs the soil for protection, and to gather moisture and nutrients to feed the still developing grass shoot.  Soil preparation optis may include bulldozing, mechanical raking, rototilling and hand raking to create a proper seed base.

TOPSOIL

Topsoil is not always necessary; however, when topsoil is added - it is best to blend it in with the existing soil.  The benefit of working-in the topsoil, is so that it can help loosen the soil allowing moisture penetration, and to provide nutrients at greater depths in the root zone.  Some soils already have a sufficient blend of grain sizes and organic matter, allowing for proper drainage and moisture retention. Good topsoil does not need to be “black”.  http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/the_shocking_truth_about_topsoil

SEED

Our seed is a custom blend of Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass and Creeping Fescue.  The Ryegrass and Fescues are intended to germinate quickly, thus stabilizing the seedbed and protecting it from erosion;  They also offer some shade tolerance and drought resistance. Under optimal conditions, germination usually occurs between

7 - 10 days.  Bluegrass however, is much slower to germinate, (20+ days), but will later spread throughout the lawn. 

LAWN SEEDING, FERTILIZATION AND PROTECTION 

Our seed is applied dry, at a rate of 7-8 lbs per 1,000 sq/ft.  Granular fertilizer is also applied at the time of seeding, so the new grass shoots have immediate access to nutrients. Then, pelleted mulch or straw blanket is applied to protect the seed from drying out and aids in stability of the seed bed. 

WATERING / MOISTURE

Keeping your newly seeded lawn properly watered is the key component to getting proper germination.  Once the seed has started germinating, it MUST NOT dry out.  In Michigan, our summer weather patterns are very inconsistent and are not always optimal.  If the seed dries out during the germination process, it will kill the seed and grass will not grow.  If you do not have a sprinkler system, moisture levels become overwhelmingly important.  You MUST be completely dedicated to pulling hoses, sometimes all day, to be successful. 

ROUTINE FERTILIZATION 

Young grass is much like a child, it cannot feed itself until it is fully developed.  Young grass shoots need additional nutrients and a lot of attention. You want your lawn to come in as quick as possible and to spread thoroughly.  A thick, healthy lawn will prevent weed growth. We highly recommend fertilizing every 30-45 days for the first 2 years.

WEEDS

Weeds cannot be prevented.  Weed seeds can lay dormant in the soil for over 100 years, and they will germinate when the conditions are perfect - many times after the top 5” are tilled.  The natural spread of weeds however, is typically airborne - meaning they normally blow in from neighboring properties or fields. Also, there is no such topsoil that is “weed free”.  If grass does not germinate quickly under optimal conditions, weeds will fill in the bare spots. Most weeds are annuals, so do not panic. Mow weekly even if the grass doesn’t look like it needs mowing.  It is important to not let the weeds go to seed. Continue a daily watering program and fertilize every 30 days. After the lawns first season, we recommend a spring application of a pre-emergent herbicide.  Worst case scenario; after the 4th mowing - an application of a Weed n’ Feed product is safe if applied properly, and under the appropriate conditions.  Please read the label.

MOWING

3 ½ inches is the recommended mowing height. (Do not let grass exceed 5”).  Cut weekly - grass likes to be cut; it promotes root growth and prevents weeds from going to seed.  Do not bag clippings; they supply nutrients, additional seed and help to retain moisture levels in the root zone.  Be cautious of zero-turn lawn mowers. They often create friction zones at turning points killing the grass, and preventing new growth.

SUNLIGHT

Like it or not, grass needs sufficient sunlight to be healthy and thick, especially Bluegrass.  Some Bluegrass varieties tout shade tolerance, but that doesn’t mean that it thrives in shaded environments.  Consider trimming up tree’s or creating mulch beds in areas that do not provide enough sunlight for a healthy lawn.

RECOGNIZING AND REACTING TO CHANGING CONDITIONS IS VITALLY IMPORTANT IN ESTABLISHING AND MAINTAINING A HEALTHY LAWN.